Price: €12.99 – €98.00
Jasmine Auriculatum Absolute
Eleonora Scalseggi has this to say “Definitely the most atypical among all jasmine materials, the very bold jasmine auriculatum absolute is far from being your regular jasmine. It has a very piercing top note, very grassy, wild, mysterious like a jungle creature, one that is fierce and past caring of being perceived as pretty or well behaved.
You will be able to detect also notes of jasmine petals and even of gardenia once the first blasts of grassy head notes have toned down a bit – but in its main body it will stay true to its rebellious self, always wild, heady, grassy, totally unexpected and foreign smelling, whilst the more familiar white flower waxy notes will sit in the background.
A material of outstanding tenacity, lasting for days and days on the smelling strip, and of great strength and projection for a natural material, Jasmine auriculatum absolute will give its best when used in trace amounts and not as a standalone floral material, unless you are a very daring perfumer!
A very transformative note, used in quite classic forest accords it will impart the vibe of a tropical jungle after a heavy rain, with all the warmth steaming through climbing vines and the canopy of trees. If you don’t believe me, just put a tiny drop on a smelling strip and take it for a walk in your local park or wood and smell for yourself! This material is great at adding lift, freshness and an element of surprise to white floral accords, and is even better with green floral and exotic themed compositions. Quite rare to see it offered, once again this dazzling material is not one for those looking for a classic smelling jasmine, although personally I find it to be the most brilliant addition of the month. If you are a daring individual and love the unusual, this is your must try jasmine.”
Adam Michael has this to say “First this is not the usual smelling jasmine material, it does not reveal a floral beauty straight from the bottle, it does not smell overly Jasmine like and it won’t wow you. It is important to write this because if you seek instant aromatic gratification from a raw material, this is not for you. To be clear though, I rate this material 10 out of 10 and if you read on I will try to explain.
The opening from the bottle or via a strip is a muddled mess of spice and foody qualities and of course indole aka the stinky stuff. And so because it is an ugly duckling I can imagine those with the depth of a bowl of porridge, closing the bottle and walking away.
However if you stick it out for 15 minutes, you will be heavily rewarded, comparable to discovering your own secret garden of pure paradise, or being sucked into a mind bending aromatic black hole for the afternoon, and returned safely home just in time to feed the cats and have a cup of warm milk before bedtime. This material oozes fantasy and is a pure pleasure ride of the absolute extreme for thrill seekers and floral lovers alike. This is more than a 10 out of 10 on the Adam Michael score card, this is the holy grail of florals, this material touches my core, it is like living the most magical and enchanting dream over and over again. It is like falling in love for the first time, kissing your crush, dancing in the rain, feeling so happy to be alive and wanting to live forever and ever. It is a material that creates and amplifies feelings of pure ecstasy.
From the 15 minute mark on the strip, the aroma wakes up, revealing wave after wave of lush creamy jasmine, so smooth, waxy, intense, true to the flowers, although not overly indolic, and with a huge dose of tropical grassy geen and refined incense qualities. This is like smelling a mash up of jasmine grandiflorium, jasmine sambac, incense wood and ylang absolute. This is pure bliss and guess what, this lasts for nearly five full days on my smelling strip, mind officially blown. Jasmine auriculatum absolute reminds me once again that I truly have the greatest job in the world.
This is a powerhouse heart note and a must for creating jungle accords, tropical themes, Oriental notes, incense-floral creations, pairs spectacularly with heavy florals like champacas (especially red), jasmines, and everything incense orientated. Works wonders in trace amounts with with white florals like gardenia and magnolia – but again note the words “trace amounts” as too much and it will over power the creation, instead of bolstering and amplifying the beauty of the other materials. Produced by solvent extraction of the flowers, of a pourable viscosity and I 110% recommend this material.”
Botanical Name: Jasminum auriculatum