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Oakmoss Absolute 50%
28th July 2022: I am so happy to announce the non-IFRA-compliant oakmoss absolute we offered for nearly 15 years from a specific producer is now back in stock. After talking with this producer on and off for many months they finally agreed to produce more of their NON-IFRA COMPLIANT OAKMOSS ABSOLUTE solely for Hermitage Oils. As mentioned below I can’t get behind IFRA compliant oakmoss material nor the idea of aromatic history being re-written for what is arguably one of the single most important natural aromatics in the history of perfume. True to my word I have never carried it and I never ever will. The power and influence of IFRA is concerning as producers just seem to fall in line. After all, offering synthetic equivalents suits most manufacturers’ interests as well.
Even online resellers nearly all seem to have dropped the non-tampered oakmoss absolute and IFRA supporters do whatever they can online to rubbish the idea that there is any difference aromatically or performance wise between non-compliant and compliant oakmoss. I’m sorry but that is simply not the case, and until we will be able to we will keep carrying outstanding material that proves that sorry no, true oakmoss has little to nothing to share with those dull, washed out excuses for an aromatic material.
We appreciate that whoever needs to sell to the EU market needs to follow the IFRA guidelines to be able to legally sell their product, just let’s be aware that the two propositions do not compare and if you want to educate your nose and your senses then true oakmoss is always the way to go. Thanks, Adam.
Adam Michael has this to say “In my humble opinion the IFRA compliant oakmoss absolute is so heavily stripped back and lifeless. From a full bodied wonder we end up with an emaciated tragedy and I refuse point blank to ever carry the IFRA compliant material. The oakmoss absolute we offer at Hermitage Oils is NOT the compliant IFRA version and instead all we offer here is the full bodied, happy, untouched wonderful oakmoss absolute that less and less companies are sadly offering today. This absolute is provided at 50% diluted in 50% ethanol.”
Arctander has this to say “Oakmoss products are used extensively in perfumery. They form important parts of the notes in all fougere, chypre, or “moss” perfumes, and they are common ingredients in colognes, crepe de Chines, forest notes, new mown hay, pine fragrances, lavender bouqets, Oriental bases, fancy or modern bases, etc. They can lend body and naturalness, rich pleasant undertones and high fixative value in numerous types of floral fragrances as well.
The Absolutes are the most versatile in perfumery use. Their solubility and great power make them the most popular forms of oakmoss extract. The absolute from benzene extraction is very dark green, viscous or semi-solid, while the absolute from petroleum ether extracted concrete is liquid and brownish-green, less intense in color. Furthermore, most oakmoss products are, in reality, mixtures of oakmoss and treemoss products, the latter being less green in color, but also different in odor and less aromatic than true oakmoss.”
Botanical Name: Evernia prunastri
Origin: The lichens which produce this absolute are found on oak and many other trees, mostly around the Mediterranean. Produced in Europe.
15 reviews for Oakmoss Absolute 50%
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UTSAHAN (verified owner) –
Totally amazing. A litte goes a long way. Wintergreen and moss notes. Very natural and unique and most of all strong.
M (verified owner) –
Oakmoss absolute is one of my favourite fixatives. From bottle, it begins with intensely green, slightly sweet & sour type smell. There is also top notes of peppers.
Interestingly, to my nose, it begin slowly. But within two minutes, it blooms on my skin.
– I get intensely green, somewhat citrusy and incensy smell
– that incensy thing is similar to frankincense
– there are hints of leather, smoke (at the distance, probably from that incensy vibe)
– there is also a lovely forest green smell
– from memory, it lasts 10+ hours on my skin.
I made my first Chypre attar with it. If you like Chypre or green perfume, you ought to give it a go.
thursturston (verified owner) –
Strong! Full bodied, almost meaty straight out of the bottle. It’s seriously reminiscent of Bovril or Marmite, Lea & Perrins Worcester sauce with a healthy smattering of herbal mossy, wet woods and earth.
It’s amazing. Everyone interested in perfume (not even making) should smell this as reference to what oakmoss can be. I’m not one to bash IFRA and restrictions are generally in place with good reason (some or over zealous of course) or intention at least.
Gorgeous, powerful and makes a mean, proper chypre accord.
joseph1 (verified owner) –
I wear this alone on my skin, all the time. It seems to be the most complex, interesting, evocative oil I have ever experienced. I have a very intimate and specific relationship to this oakmoss. It’s immensely grounding, and seductive yet totally heart opening and purifying for the lungs, sinus and crown chakra. I respect it so much, and want to swim inside it forever.
Konstantina B (verified owner) –
I love how rich its aroma is. I blended with sandalwood and patchouli and its absolute divine!!!!!!!
Rob Lloyd (verified owner) –
Believe me this is a thing of beauty, so much so I am about to order more…
Thomas (verified owner) –
The basenote of Guerlain “Mitsouko” ! A smoky green and salty leather with true ambergris and animalic notes. Extremely complex and… erogenous.
CATHERINE A (verified owner) –
A fantastic product , a scent of forest , usefull for chypre parfumes, fantastic also in cologne with orange (eau d orange verte Hermes ! )
g.s.oldenkamp (verified owner) –
A fantastic masculine fragrance! It is great to use it neat in a alcohol solution but also in a blend. In a blend it should be used sparsingly because one drop too much can overpower and destroy your entire creation.
Ruslan R (verified owner) –
I am lost for words!!!!!!! HEAVENLY!!!!!!!
chrisbrit1984 (verified owner) –
Absolutely top notch. I have owned several small batches of Oakmoss Absolute over the years and all from different suppliers. This one for me takes the prize, deep, dark, rich and beautiful. Simply stunning.
Indie Perfumer (verified owner) –
As of August 2021, all products containing raw oakmoss absolute will be removed from the European market. In perfumery, this is a tragedy, as true oakmoss is among the finest and most impactful materials in the perfumer’s palette. Suppliers have laboured for some two decades to create speciality products (called ‘low atranol’, ‘IFRA 43’, etc.) to replace the raw absolute, though none compare to the real thing. Hermitage Oils is among the few online suppliers that continue to offer the raw absolute, for which they must be commended.
This perfumer has had occasion to evaluate an array of raw oakmoss absolutes. As the market for these products in fine perfumery is very limited, it is difficult to obtain products of high quality. Moreover, oakmoss is among the most varied of naturals, with one absolute often quite unlike another: some liquid, others solid and crystalline, some leathery and marine (seaweed), others powdery, fruity (banana) and gourmand (tonka). This is due to the origin and quality of the starting material, the quantity of lichen versus branches, the percentage of Evernia prunastri versus other species, the solvent, the extraction method, etc.
This particular batch (2019) of oakmoss absolute from Hermitage Oils is liquid, a dark brownish green in colour, with a pleasant and intense top note, a green, woody, mossy and marine heart, over a dense, complex leathery dry down of reasonable substantivity. Much recommended.
Gabriella C (verified owner) –
Extremely dark, green, rich, very complicated oil.
Joel R (verified owner) –
To me this is winter in liquid form. The forest at rest, the smoke in the distance.
I guess one could argue oakmoss is one of the few ‘umami’ notes, which makes it so special. The richness, the body it provides has no real equivalent.
Florals are flowers, ozonics the air, so is oakmoss the earth – full-bodied, dark, mysterious and yet soft.
Kai Leon Art Perfumer (verified owner) –
Gorgeous Beast – like a licentious Satyr in afternoon dream – somewhere on sun-kissed Cyprus island, sweat rich earth, drenched in a generous masculine musk. Lasts forever.