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Orris Butter Germanica (13% Irones)
Eleonora Scalseggi has this to say “This Orris butter is one of the most renown perfumery materials for its luxurious, exquisite aroma along with incredibly expensive prices. The reason for the pricing is chiefly due to the very lengthy process – literally years – required to obtain the butter. First of all the orris rhizomes have to be at least 2 – 3 years old in order to be mature enough to be dug out of the soil, once dug out they will be carefully dried and cured for a few more years – again usually not less than three years but the more time the better as the butter will have a finer scent and a richer content in prized irones. The distillation itself is also challenging and requires specialised equipment – a still specifically modified for iris butter extraction. The result is a solid material – due to the myristic acid content – and with a very innocent looking butterscotch /buttery yellow colour, that will melt with very gentle warmth.
Considering the painstakingly slow and challenging process necessary to produce it one might wonder why anyone would bother going through all this. The answer is simple: its scent is sensational, the most elegantly powdery, complex, refined violet flower scent you can ever wish to experience, so softly tenacious on skin and yet such a high floral note, so elegant, so heavenly. No serious perfumer can ever think of substituting orris with synthetic materials alone, because they just don’t come close to the quiet complexity of this timeless masterpiece. Like rose and jasmine, iris is irreplaceable, in compositions as well as in the hearts of fragrance lovers, spellbound by its precious beauty, despite the cost, despite the challenges.
This specific butter contains 13% of the prized irones so is well above the entry level orris butters offered by most of the Grasse-based suppliers, and we have managed to secure it directly from a true iris specialist producer, from whom we will purchase more iris wonders in the future. Buying direct also means being able to offer this material at a much better price than the Grasse-based companies for this irone content.
We will strive to keep this Orris butter consistently in stock – first of all because we don’t want to be without it ourselves – but based on how difficult has proved to obtain it we can’t totally guarantee that we will manage to actually have this material constantly in stock from now on. A new favourite and highly recommended.”
Botanical Name: Iris germanica
Origin: Morocco
11 reviews for Orris Butter Germanica (13% Irones)
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Indie Perfumer (verified owner) –
This orris product is a fine example of Iris germanica butter. While less esteemed than that of the I. pallida variety, I. germanica is appreciated for its rooty, woody, chocolaty, caramellic and fruity (peach) facets, in addition to the characteristic powdery floral violet note. The difference is largely due to irone distribution: I. germanica contains more cis-alpha irones and less cis-gamma irones than I. pallida. Having evaluated orris samples from numerous suppliers, I find this is the best ‘value-for-money’ orris material available online, and an indispensable addition to the independent perfumer’s palette.
Charalambos Charalambous (verified owner) –
One of the best iris butter material i ever came across after many years of trying to find good quality oils..it has a powdery and violet kind of aspects with a mimosa softness..so beautiful
S C (verified owner) –
This is the best orris butter I have ever experienced. It has all the usual characteristics of orris with the addition of being very balanced and almost creamy.
Aurelya (verified owner) –
Like other people who have commented, we recommend with all our heart, the perfect component of a larger composition! High quality, you won’t be disappointed! I am a huge fan of iris and orris root and I can’t stop smelling it 🙂 Perfect addon to my signature perfumes.
benparkes21 (verified owner) –
Smelling this is exactly like biting into the Parma Violet sweets I had as a child – sweet, violet, chalky, powdery loveliness. Underneath all this exists a beautiful soft, woody backbone that’s slightly fatty but in a pleasing way. Altogether, it acts a wonderful bridge between other woody floral notes, bringing them together harmoniously and infusing with a luxurious depth. Great strength and longevity too, one drop diluted at 10% lasts a few hours on the skin. A sensational orris butter that I feel very lucky to own.
dnushaj (verified owner) –
Stunning material. The Iris Germanica 13% Irones is warming, and rounded, but also leafy and fresh, without being “soapy” or excessively powdery. It is so versatile for mixing with other oils and actually making them get along better. I also find it extremely useful as a fixative if you are looking for a way to make your mixtures last longer.
CATHERINE A (verified owner) –
Fantastic complexity
Green , violet flower , not too much powdery
Very good tenacity
Patrick E (verified owner) –
I get soft deep wet and fresh soil notes on first impression, then heavenly dreamy powdery florals. This is an incredible scent, very complex (yet also simple, oddly) and I think it is going to take me some more time to get to know it better. However, I can already tell it’s incredible.
Alex K (verified owner) –
Splendid. Earthen, violet, very slightly powdery. Beautiful – this Orris butter needs to be heated in order for it to be pourable. Once it is heated it unleashes its olfactory arsenal which is moving, meditative and brings such warmth and charm to my compositions. I really appreciate this one.
Kai Leon Art Parfumeur (verified owner) –
Orris essences are in general an Epitome of aromatic Glamour and luxurious Elegance, and this Butter is a wonderful specimen of exactly that –
without retelling olfactory descriptions of others, I add that Orris (and this one – par excellence) in a way like a primary colour – irreducible, indispensable, its own thing – idiosincratic in its Sophisticated Charm:
It feels as if it posesses another hidden dimension – beyond the perceivable exciting complex scent, there is supra-ethereal space in it, a Magic beyond molecules, insmellable smell that casts a spell of profound Beauty – once you inhale the volatile cover of it. A Transportive fragrant miracle – for me.
Akim Kelar (verified owner) –
Great material!
So true rich violet aroma with a plenty of interesting facets to explore. Powdery, almost dusty due to the green notes, that immediately remind the tiny gentle violet leaf note. Through these top notes appears reach floral violet and iris flower notes. These notes can also be captured on the blotter in a few days, when the green violet leaf note is gone.
On my taste, I prefer more clean floral violet-iris orris butter, which can provide a volume and a cosmetic-like powdery violet note to any perfume. But this material is irreplaceable in true reach violet compositions, and any florals, where fresh green notes are desired like tuberose, fleur d’orange, or white florals.